"DEATH FACTORS" of fire:
FACT ONE...Principle of Fire Retardant: Contrary to common belief, fire retardant is not cooling the "heat" or extinguishing it. Fire Retardant works on the princinple of thermal insulation. Once exposed to flames, the treated surface "swells" to a hugh layer of insulation of very low thermal conductivity. Counting on the first flame as a "weak" one (that is not extremely high in heat flux (heat flow per area), the physical laws of heat flux (q=-kdT/dx) dictates that for the same amount of heat flux, if thermal conductivity k is extremely low, there must be a sharp drop of Temperature T accross the insulation film. And because q is low at the start, it is impossible to raise the surface temperature to that of the ignition point (>450 F). By treating potential "kindling" materials with Fire Retardant the living "campfire" will never start, regardless where or how the fire is initiated. Once the "kindling" fails to fire, there is no "fuel" to further the flame and the inferno is prevented.
This kit comes with full instruction, and all Fire Retardant needed for a house.
WE ALL COMPLETELY LOSE OUR SENSE OF SMELL WHEN WE SLEEP !
Most deaths by fire occur at night caused by smoke and gas inhalation, not flames.
Our homes are "DESIGNED" TO BURN!
Now, look at any house being framed. And, just like a campfire, you can't easily burn a frame of heavy lumber. However, we change all that when we move in with our stuffed furniture, mattresses, boxsprings, curtains, skirts around our beds, and so on. We have now provided the KINDLING that sets the fire trap.
WE ALL LIVE IN PERFECTLY DESIGNED, GIANT, CAMPFIRES!
Now that you are armed with the above two facts, you can begin to learn how to transform your home from the giant CAMPFIRE that it now is, to the safe, protective environment that it should be.
To take this subject a little further, you must understand that your home, like a campfire, is very difficult to burn without the kindling! As example, if your home were completed but you had not begun to move anything into it yet, you could go in with a cigarette lighter or matches and you would have an EXTREMELY difficult time getting that house to burn! This surprises many people, but it's true. In fact, we have tried this with a propane torch and found that to light a 2 by 4 pine framing member takes 10-15 minutes with the torch on one spot! Even then, if you do manage to keep it burning, the flame often goes out in a few minutes anyway. That is because the wood AROUND the torch flame has to be heated to over 450 degrees Fahrenheit before the flammable gases come out of the wood freely so it can remain on fire WITHOUT the flame SOURCE (torch). This can't happen unless something more flammable is in the vicinity of the wood to heat up the air.
This principle is the same with sheetrock and even most carpets. Our demonstration videos show a torch flame on the surface of lumber, sheetrock and several types of carpet for several minutes at a time, with the flames simply DYING OUT once the torch is removed. The carpet surprises MANY people when we demonstrate this. It is because there is no air circulation underneath the carpet and that it is very difficult to start a fire there. Once again, as with the lumber, the air temperature needs to be very hot in order for the carpet to remain on fire.
What all this means is that the "DEATH FACTORS" we will be identifying here do not lie in the construction materials of the house, but in the KINDLING. That is, your furniture and curtains along with a few other "target" items that we will identify for you. It bears repeating for clarity that: "WITHOUT KINDLING, CAMPFIRES ARE VERY VERY DIFFICULT TO START". What you are about to learn is how to transform all of that "kindling" into safe furnishings and interior decor for your family!